There is a lot you can get up to in Vang Vieng - tubing, caving, trekking and even hot air ballooning! Daniel and I did none of these things. We contemplated floating down the river in a tube, however we decided to save the money and spend the time sitting in cabanas beside the river instead, watching crowds of Korean tourists sail past in colourful kayaks. The government was forced to put a lot of effort into cleaning up this once ‘backpacker party den.’

The most adventurous we got was a decision to cross the river in an attempt to access a shortcut back to our bungalow, and back to cookie. I minded our things while Daniel tested the depth and strength of the current. It all seemed fine until he discovered that his legs were being sucked into the mud, sinking up to the top of his thighs. We could have turned back, but with only a few meters to the bank it was too close to give in. Each leg slurped and slipped into the mud and I was praying that I didn't disturb a mud crab family or stand on the tail of a river snake. We made it to the other side easily enough, dirty, but nothing permanent. After a hose down, I spent the rest of the afternoon playing with cookie.

By night, we dined on a cheap and flavourful green curries, veggie platters from Earth bar and beers from the fridge. The moon glowed behind the incessant humidity and the sound of distant parties sent us to sleep.

The morning we left was a tough one. I didn't want to leave little cookie behind and my eyes welled with tears as the white minivan pulled into the driveway and we were shipped off in a cloud of dust.